March 9 - 10: Transkei Adventures

nobody@vox.com(Thembi Ngubane) — Thu, 15 Mar 2007 22:17:29 -0700

The Bulungula Lodge is a secluded place in the Transkei where tourists come to rural villages to get the "real South African" experience. I went to present to communites from the villages.

The lodge was mistaken for a river, a mountain, a shop and other places that are also called Bulungua. Melikhaya, the official translator, went into rondovals (round, humble village houses with stick roofs) asking locals for directions. We got lost in the middle of dark fields.

When Melikhaya and I were seen with "white people," they said we were looking for "David's" place, the only white person in the village. And the owner of the Bulungula Lodge. After that, every person we asked pointed us in the right direction toward "David's mansion by the sea."

When I heard "mansion," I got excited. A big, brick house with an electric fence and bodyguard, I thought. But when we arrived there was nothing but more rondovals. But these had colorful paintings on the walls with candles and tourist decorations. As we got off the bus onto the muddy grass, foreigners said, "oh my god, this is beautiful, it is like a real safari."

The dining room was also a large rondoval. The beer, the food, the music, the low light was exactly like places in Khayelitishia, my township. The difference here was that these were all white people sitting on the floor with no shoes on. In Khayelitishia we sit on chairs, wear shoes and there are no white people. I thought, my god these people are imitating the township life! I want to learn how to be rich and these rich people are pretending to be poor.

There was no mansion, only colorful rondovals with no electricity. Not my style. But I was happy because Joe and Melikhaya were happy, so I relaxed drank some wine and went with the flow.

The Day at Bulungula Lodge

In the morning I woke up and found a goat staring at me. I almost left running back to Cape Town right there. I thought a shower would fix things but got lost trying to find the toilet and only found a shower head next to a tree. Here is a picture. Come all the way to a tourist vacation lodge to have to boil hot water! And people pay for this?? I should invite them to Khayelitshia where we do this everyday.

The best part were the beaches. Melikhaya and I were walking with him taking pictures like if I was a model in a photo shoot. Melikhaya even got excited about riding a horse. The city boy ran in on a grey horse like a country boy. I did it too but the fun only lasted 10 minutes and then I thought why does this horse have to carry me in the hot sun. I felt bad. He might throw me off out of anger. I got off the horse and took a nap in the sun.

Waiting for Melikhaya two large groups of children ran toward me, kind of staring at me. I felt nervous, scared and uncomfortable. I saw that they were holding postcards from the tour. Out of no where I felt like crying. This had never happened to me but I did not want to do the presentation.

It was like I was the city girl coming to the country and they knew that I was the one who had HIV / AIDS and had came to entertain them. The ignorance of the village kids mixed with white tourists acting like poor South Africans made me feel like a clown. Melikhaya had to present for me. They told me he did great!

Melikhaya said that the children thought he was joking about being HIV positive. They know it exists, but can't imagine that healthy looking people can have it. All of this reminded me how important it is to have access to information and education.

So......a goat, bare feet, no mansion, no electricity, and no cell. phone connection.... goodbye Bulungula, I could not wait to get back to the city!!

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Thembi's AIDS Diary Tour: South Africa

March 9 - 10: Transkei Adventures